Hon Chen Shrine: A Spiritual Oasis and the Heart of Mother Goddess Worship
The Hon Chen Shrine (Điện Hòn Chén), also known as Hue Nam Temple (Điện Huệ Nam), offers one of Hue’s most unique spiritual and scenic experiences. This colorful complex sits dramatically on the side of Ngoc Tran Mountain, overlooking the Perfume River, creating a serene atmosphere that attracts pilgrims and tourists alike. It stands as a remarkable example of syncretism, blending Cham, folk, and royal Vietnamese religious traditions.
I. Historical Roots and Spiritual Significance
The shrine traces its origins back to the ancient Cham people, who worshipped the goddess PoNagar (Mother Goddess of the Land) here. When the Vietnamese settled the area, they adopted and integrated the worship of the goddess, renaming her Thiên Y A Na.
Royal Patronage: The Nguyễn Emperors recognized the site’s importance. Emperor Đồng Khánh particularly championed the shrine, undertaking a significant renovation in 1886 and renaming it Huệ Nam (meaning “Bestow Favor on the Southern Kingdom”) to show his gratitude to the Holy Mother.
A Blend of Faiths: Hon Chen is unique because it unifies various spiritual beliefs. It is the key sanctuary for the Vietnamese Mother Goddess worship (Thờ Mẫu), a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Furthermore, it houses altars for the Buddha, the Holy Mother Liễu Hạnh, and the military saint Quan Công, reflecting the multilayered spiritual life of Hue’s people.
II. Architecture and How to Visit
The complex consists of over ten graceful structures nestled into the mountainside. It is not a single large building but rather a cluster of brightly decorated pavilions.
Key Structures: The central structure is Minh Kính Đài, facing the river. Other important areas include the Ngũ Hành Palace and the Thủy Phủ Shrine near the water’s edge. The vibrant decoration, particularly the ornate reliefs and colorful porcelain mosaics, showcases the high level of decorative art from the late 19th century.
Getting There: The shrine lies approximately 8 kilometers southwest of Hue city center. The most beautiful and traditional way to reach it is by Dragon Boat on the Perfume River. Alternatively, you can access it by road, although the river journey provides stunning views and a deeper sense of pilgrimage.
III. Visitor Essentials and Festivals
The most compelling reason to visit is during one of the major festivals.
Major Festivals: The shrine hosts two grand festivals annually, traditionally held in the third and seventh lunar months (usually corresponding to March/April and August/September). These events feature dazzling hầu bóng (mediumship) ceremonies, traditional folk performances, and magnificent processions of dragon boats on the Perfume River, attracting thousands of pilgrims.
General Information:
Location: Ngọc Trản Mountain, Hương Hồ Ward, Hương Trà Town.
Opening Hours: The shrine is open daily, typically from 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
Admission Fee: The current entrance fee is 50,000 VND per adult. Children under 1.3 meters tall enter free of charge. Please carry cash for ticket purchases.
Visitor Tip: Plan your visit in the morning to experience the tranquility or, better yet, check the lunar calendar to coincide your trip with the spring or autumn festival to witness the spectacular river procession and cultural richness. Remember to wear modest clothing, covering your shoulders and knees, to show respect in this highly sacred space.
